M/Y Mary Ann

Note: Keep a written record of all third party work done by date, worker, contact number, parts or components installed, and cost. Reach me at:

425 883 2662 (home)
206 910 2662 cell
john@junderwood.com

1. Replace aft portside spotlight. Buy one spare.
2. Replace port side exterior overhead light cover. Buy one spare.
3. Add boat davit line weight restraint to where old one was torn off. It’s a small half ring to which is attached a snap ring from the second tool drawer.
4. Take aft engine room door hydraulic lifts to manufacturer and have the pressure reduced to ease the difficulty of closing the door. Probably needs a pressure reduction of about 30-40%. Label on door with phone number.
5. Wire PH bench seat AC outlet to the inverter panel in PH.
6. Re-wire boat deck autopilot paddle to inside of cabinet like the pilothouse paddle so wire not hanging outside.
7. Add a hydraulic fluid retaining device to Naiad stabilizer fluid lines. This device retains hydraulic pressure in the stabilizer line after engines shut down so that stabilizer doesn’t flop around when at anchor in rough water. Call Naiad for this. Confirm switch location with me before installing.
8. Replace exotic bulb in small reading lamp between the two salon chairs. Buy a spare.
9. Create two holes immediately adjacent to and forward of one of the existing staples, either right or left of the center staple, in which to store the center staple when swim ladder is in use.
10. Cut three (3”) inches off the posts for the two tables on the boat deck to make them same height as tables on California deck.
11. Figure out a way to ease entry into utility room. Perhaps rebuild the hatch into a ¾ and ¼ athwartship configuration instead of the present 50-50 fore and aft division, with the smaller section just enough to clear the room door, and add some kind of lightweight hydraulic lift for the larger section. Figure out some kind of first step to facilitate climbing down into the utility room.
12. Raise searchlight somehow so that it can shine over the bimini top. Maybe move to upper arch. Is useless as it is.
13. Have scratch along portside aft hull taken out. Touch up other spots as necessary, including area around boat deck pilot seat attachments and elsewhere on boat deck as observed. Be sure to use exactly the same paint color, which is not white. Confirm color with me. No mistakes!
14. Remove Lehigh compressed air diaphragm pump that serves the black water system.
    • Replace with a fully adequate electric pump to achieve the same function, but be sure that the pump selected is made for pumping semi solids. Add a shut off valve in the black water line ahead of the pump to facilitate working on the pump in the future. Consider cutting out the floor above the pump and replacing with removable decking like the rest of the engine room floor if necessary to facilitate installation of new pump and new shut off valve.
    • Or, as a better fix, figure out whether it is practical to add an emergency pump of some sort for when the primary pump fails. Perhaps install the new electric pump parallel to the existing diaphragm pump, but if so, then install the new diaphragm pump from the spares in utility room and rebuild the existing as a spare using the repair kit in utility room. I have had nothing but trouble with this system and I need a once and for all fix with a fully operable back up system, if such a thing is possible.
15. Inspect and service all batteries. Engine room house batts have been taking water, but main engine and generator starter batts have not. Test all batts for useful life with hydrometer located in tool chest. Don’t forget to check 12 volt batts: (1) in 14’ tender, (2) under PH console to service emergency VHF transmissions, and (3) under boat deck console to service EPIRB. Record condition found and action taken in engine room log.
16. Change oil and filters in both 32kw gens. Use the DELO 400 oil outboard of the port engine and use filters from utility room. Change fuel filters also. Need 2½ gallons per generator so you may be a little short. Buy another five gallons if necessary. Dispose of used oil and filters. DO NOT put used oil into onboard used oil tank. There is a Shell one gallon oil container in stbd aft lazarette compartment and funnels to use when putting oil in gen sets. Enter oil and filter change data in engine room log.
17. Change engine oil and filters. Use Shell Gadina monograde oil in onboard new oil tank, which now contains about 55 gallons. Engines take about 15 gallons each. Change all oil and fuel filter using spare filters from utility room. Dispose of used oil and filter. DO NOT put used oil in onboard used oil tank. Be sure to have the oil dispensing nozzle inserted in the engine oil add receptacle and have the nozzle control lever open when you turn on the oil pump to prevent oil blowback on yourself. Enter oil and filter change data in engine room log.
18. Add stainless metal plates of some kind beneath bow pulpit to prevent further wear and damage as anchor retracted. Have these fabricated to fit nicely.
19. Repair/revise HVAC system to increase raw water flow to system when vessel underway.
    • Recently I have had two different AC men aboard to look at the system. They concluded, independently, that when underway the engines are taking so much of the raw water from the sea chests that the AC system starves and shuts down. AC system shows fault CS-3, which the instructions say indicates compressor high water temperature. System seems to work fine when not underway. We have also discovered that the system seems to run when underway so long as only the downstairs thermostats are on and salon and PH thermostats are off. The two guys I had aboard both thought that it may be necessary to move the AC raw water discharge port from below the waterline to a point above the waterline to reduce back pressure and enable free discharge of raw water. Check the AC manual located in the office. Call manufacturer near here in Florida for advice as needed. Their number is in the manual.
    • Need to greatly increase cooled air introduced into PH due to large quantity of glass and consequent heat buildup. Call HVAC people and get it done, if possible.
20. Get the MTU/DDC mechanic aboard to replace the coolant sensor on the starboard engine. Shows Code 67 and Code 88, both coolant pressure warnings, but coolant pressure is adequate.
21. Repair/replace fastener snaps that have torn out of bench seating on boat deck and California deck. Patch and paint where snaps have torn out. Put some lubricant on all snaps to ease attaching and detaching.
22. Try to figure out route of water that floods down onto range via galley range hood during heavy tropical rainstorms. Also comes in to engine room via portside engine room fresh air induction vents somehow. It looks like the water comes in via the fresh air intake vents. Water streams down the boat deck vent near the pilot console when heavy rains flow off the bimini top.
23. Get the Pactor SSB email device working. It is installed now beneath the PH console and wired to the computer on the PH bench seat and to the PH console port corner wiring bundle, but it won’t work. Wire is labeled ‘email’. Pactor instructions may be found in office on the desk. This device is capable of sending and receiving email via SSB if it works. May want to check Pactor website for better install instructions than the instruction book.
24. Take a look at the galley counters where they have been acid stained. Figure out how to refinish the damaged surface and seal to protect in the future. Mary Ann will interface with Pratt Larson, the Seattle company which supplied the material and put you in contact with them for advice. Probably going to have to seal the entire galley area now covered with tile, including counters, backsplash, and floor, and possibly counter in master stateroom head as well.
25. Get the anemometer working. Does not display wind speed. IS device manuals in box under chart table drawers in PH.
26. Get the boat speed display working on the IS15 Combi instrument. Presumably transducer problem. Nothing appears amiss under the boat.
27. Consider lowering boat deck camera so it can see under the bimini to the front. Probably too much effort for the gain, but take a look and let me know what you think can be done.
28. Reverse the salon entertainment center components to put CD player on bottom of cabinet, the sound control component next up, and the TV at the top. Maybe can remove the shelving attached to the top of this cabinet, turn it over, and just attach it to the bottom of the cabinet. At present I cannot see into the CD component as it is too high. This is a tricky job working behind the mirror to adjust the wire lead lengths. Don’t break the mirror.
29. Replace blown speakers in salon (stbd side), boat deck, and elsewhere as needed.
30. Inspect whisperwall ceilings and tuck away all poorly finished ends. Whisperwall tool in engine room tool drawer.
31. Add larger seal to bottom of shower door in twin bed stateroom to prevent water leaking on floor. Check shower doors in double bed stateroom and Vee bunk stateroom for similar leaks.
32. Clean all engine room bilges with hot water and cleaner or steam to remove all oils and spillage residue, including black water spillage.
33. Add stainless collar to steering wheel column on boat deck like collar on PH steering column.
34. Add aft salon door retainer to hold in open position. Previous two have broken off or been smashed off by weight of door in seaway. You may re-install the original retainer which is stored in plastic bowl on port engine room workbench, but will have to carefully cut wood finish above door to do so. Very heavy door in seaway. I have a cut down rubber beach sandal stuck in there now to cushion the blow. The final stopper has to be shock absorbent to take the smash of the door, assuming the first retainer gets broken off again by guests pulling door closed without releasing the catch. Guests not likely to learn how to close this door properly so we need an idiot proof retainer and release.
35. Repair improperly installed hydraulic hatch lifter/stay in portside forward exterior line locker. Screws were not bedded when installed. Remove lifter/stay on starboard locker and bed those screws before they tear out too.
36. Replace the existing fresh water hose attachment devices with some sort of standard hose bib fitting. Am thinking to put two forward outlets inside the line/fender lockers, boat deck outlet inside sink locker. Have no idea where to put aft swimstep hose bib. There are just four on the boat. Confer with me before you do anything.
37. Check the two 50’ white water hoses to see if all of the ends are in good condition. I believe two of the ends do not properly connect. Make appropriate repairs. Buy additional 50’ white water hose and two spray nozzles.
38. • Repair icemaker function in salon U-Line refrigerator. Icemaker does not introduce water into tray, although water is flowing to the tray solenoid.
    • Also repair icemaker function in galley refrigerator. This appliance functions well below optimum icemaking.
39. Paint Solarism plotter flat screen in PH the same shade of grey as remainder of PH console instruments.
40. Test and calibrate sonar to assure competent operation. It does not seem to reflect objects in front as it should. Set controls to standard default settings with range out 200’ and angle down to 15’ so I don’t have to touch them again. Set lower section to read bottom to 30-50’.
41. • Fix leak above the starboard rudder post, which is reached through hatch beneath aft engine room ladder. Clean up evidence of salt water dripping. Although this looks like a leak in the rudder post mechanism, I have seen the water dripping down onto the plate so am reasonably certain that the hose above is leaking and not the rudder post fittings.
    • Examine other rudder post for evidence of leaking and tighten as needed. This post, the port side, was repacked in January and may need tightening.
42. Remove and repair boat deck VHF radio. It functions intermittently in ‘receive’ mode, probably due to moisture.
43. Consider whether anything short of replacement can be done with the boat deck radar repeater. It does not give a useful display at any time and seems to be pretty much useless. It is slaved to the 96 mile PH radar. Manuals in box of manuals under console drawers in PH.
44. Need to figure out the fuel capacity of the port and starboard fuel tanks. These tanks are specified as 1350 gallons but appear well short of specified capacity. I will call Sovereign Yachts and see if they happen to have dimensions on the tanks, but I doubt that they will have anything. When we get this figured out we will replace the plexiglass cover over the sight gauges and mark the fuel gallonage levels.
45. Measure the hatches in master stateroom, twin bed stateroom, and utility room (as rebuilt). Have new, one piece, edge guards (Hootie rims) fabricated for each hatch in a complementary color of anodized metal with rounded corners. The guards now on these hatches are cheap and have sharp corners.
46. Remove propeller on 14’ tender and have straightened. Purchase a spare propeller.
47. Wash boat weekly or bi-weekly as necessary and keep interior and exterior clean and presentable as needed to show for sale. Clean accumulated growth off waterline.
48. Get the bow thruster guy out to test the thrusters. They do not generate the same level of thrust as previous, although they spin fine when observed from underwater. They have a lot of barnacles on them.
49. Clean up and repaint or touch up, as warranted, the pedestal feet under the tables on California deck where grey paint has peeled away.
50. Add new fittings or gaskets to forward Vee bunk stateroom head portlight and master stateroom head portlight to stop leaks.
51. Pickle watermaker and change filters. Use filters and changing chemicals stored in utility room or call a watermaker dealer to do it, but use the on board filters in either event. Be sure to test, tighten, or repair raw water inlet side to stop leaks. Seem to be three of more leaking connections. Small filter on right side of watermaker is leaking a lot.
52. One ceiling light in the master stateroom does not work. I can’t get a new bulb to work so it must be a fault in the fixture. One bulb exploded in my hand when I inserted it. Replace all burned out ceiling bulbs in boat. Bulbs in office filing cabinet.
53. Attach a fresh water hose to each of the two Honda outboard engines and run all of the fuel out of the lines and carburetors. Check and service battery in 14’ boat.
54. Adjust center windshield wiper to keep it on center windshield. Be sure that these nuts are screwed down tight to prevent slippage of the arm.
55. Replace missing electrical fitting on bow deck anchor winch. Old fitting in bowl on engine room workbench. Winch control and cable hanging on port engine room wall near air system controls.
56. Find and fix hydraulic fluid leak on stbd side of engine room beneath hydraulic lines junction.
57. Get the satellite TV working. It is supposed to be on DISH network.
58. Find and fix the water leak in the overhead just about six inches in front of the forward most clothing locker in the master stateroom. There is some slight discoloration in the ceiling at just the leaking spot.
59. Change filter in cartridge under galley sink. Is screwed on too tight for me to get loose without risking tearing out the plumbing lines. New filter under the sink and in utility room.
60. Install auto bailer cups on stern of both tenders. I will provide these from Rabur Sales in Florida.
61. Remove, clean up, and re-bed deck fittings showing rust. Includes swim platform pop up cleat and stbd after rail fitting, among others.
62. Replace water stained boards:
    1. At the step into the shower in the master head,
    2. Below sink cabinet in double bed stateroom head.

    Seal the board ends before installing.

63. Repair or replace rubber gasket around laundry room freezer door.
64. Adjust faucets on forward sink in master stateroom head to increase water volume.
65. Repair loose wiring on port side engine room generator voltage meter.
66. Check all stateroom sink water faucets to assure that hot water is on the left and cold water is on the right.